What’s The Difference Between Bespoke And Made To Measure | MTM Vs. Bespoke Suits Which is Better?

The confusion between Bespoke and Made-To-Measure tailoring is nothing new.

The average guy with will think that they one and the same.

And in some cases, they can be…

Both are specialized methods of tailoring…

They both take specific measurements…

But they have major differences.

The confusion is often traced back to some Made-To-Measure clothiers that claim to do bespoke services but in fact, they don’t.

They claim to do so in order to level up their brand and thus command a higher premium.

So now, here are the five areas to keenly look for in order to decipher this mystery and clear out the confusion once and for all.

# 1 The Pattern Involved

Made To Measure

With Made-To-Measure (MTM), you need to have a standard or pre-set pattern that are usually bought off-the-rack. An example is your trousers. When you buy an Off-The-Rack or Ready-To-Wear garment, they are made for the general fit or for the average person for a particular size.

But there are guys whose size or built does not match or fit perfectly on these mass produced garments.

Let’s say, you have a size 42 suit but you have all these problems:

• the sleeves almost cover your hands
• the trousers are too long
• you want to bring the midsection in
• you want your trouser to have half, quarter or no break.

With MTM, your tailor can make the necessary adjustments on the pattern to meet your specifications.

For bespoke on the other hand, it starts from the ground up. No pre-existing standard pattern will be used as the base foundation. Everything starts from scratch and a uniquely new pattern is made from the client’s own body dimensions.

Bespoke

Bespoke is the tailoring of choice for clients who have body deformities or imperfections which make any RTW or OTR unsuitable.

For example, if one leg is bow-legged, bespoke can make a trouser to mask this feature. The tailor takes note of the tiniest imperfections and makes a pattern to hide them in the final output. This is where MTM falls short of.

Think of MTM as the fixer-upper of tailoring while Bespoke is like constructing a new house from a vacant lot.

# 2 The Number of Fittings

Made To Measure

For MTM, not much. It usually takes one or two fittings only, just to get the dimensions and design a draft. For the final adjustments, another fitting is needed to make sure that the final product is within the measurement range and the customizations added are within the client’s expectations.

Bespoke

Bespoke, when translated in layman’s terms, means a verbal order given for something to be done. Since no base or standard pattern is involved, multiple fittings are needed starting from the skeleton baste fitting, followed by the forward fitting and there’s the fin bar fin fitting. This is a systematic process where a new fitting is built from a previous fitting.

This is not a rush product. In some cases, it takes up to 8 weeks to finish because you need at least 20-25 measurements from three-four fittings to get the configurations right. Some bespoke even have at least 5 or more in between fittings in one custom job order.

# 3 Degree of Customization or Options

Made To Measure

MTM shops can do several customization options. You can talk with your tailor on the number of buttons, the pant pleats you want, the type of cuffs, the pocket style to make.

Some can also do adjustments on gorge height, the width of the lapel, the button stance and the interior lining as well. However, since Made-To-Measure is based upon a set pattern, the amount of customization design is limited so as not to ruin the base pattern from which it was built on.

Bespoke

This is where Bespoke has its biggest advantage. The options are unlimited and the client is absolutely unhindered on which features, style, design, and fabrics to be used because the tailor does not have to worry about destroying the integrity of a pre-set pattern.

# 4 Number of Fabric Options

Made To Measure

When going for MTM custom suit, the range of fabric that you can choose is limited because the number of mills from where fabrics are curated is usually at 2 at the maximum, but some shops can have more.

Bespoke

Bespoke enjoys a wider selection of mills, between 8-10 mills, and sometimes more, from where fabrics are chosen. So more mills means more fabrics to choose from including the high-end ones.

#5 The Cost

Made To Measure

Since MTM does not consume much of effort, time and the limited options from fabric mills, the average price range is more affordable and hits between $500-$1,000.

Bespoke

Bespoke is more costly because of the number of fittings involved, labor hours, fabrics used, and most of the work is usually hand-made and manually sewn. Services can range between $ 2,000-3,000 and even more.

Which One To Choose And Which Is Better?

The choice is really personal. It is really a balance between cost and the quality of work. Made-To-Measure is preferred by many because it is more affordable and the finished product is the same or almost at par than bespoke. Advocates of Made-To-Measure will tell you to choose a good clothier brand Off-The-Rack and have it modified by a reputable tailor to get the best results.

For those who love bespoke, the higher price point is justified because it does not have the limitations of a Made-To-Measure tailoring, such as having more fabric and design options. Since the craftsmanship involved with bespoke is mostly done by hand, bespoke advocates believe that the finished product is superior and better than Made-To-Measure.

So, if you are going for bespoke or Made-To-Measure, with the pro’s and con’s of each side, everything boils to the skill of your tailor. If you are penny-pinching or if you are willing to pay more, it is the level of satisfaction you have with the finished product that will determine which method is right for you.